FERMENTED FOODS ARE BACK
Fermented foods have burst
onto the health scene and are packing the supermarket shelves. What are
they? Do the health claims stack up? Here, dietitian Nicole Senior
checks them out and Prof Jennie Brand-Miller explains why many are low
GI.
Everywhere you look there is a revival of
time-honoured food preserving skills including jams, preserves, pickles
and chutneys. What was once a prudent method for prolonging the
nutrition and enjoyment of a seasonal harvest has become an uber-cool
way to turn your back on mass-produced food and make your own local
artisanal, bespoke food with heart.
What is fermentation? Fermentation occurs naturally when
bacteria is given an opportunity to transform the carbohydrates into
more complex substances. It is a process of using microorganisms such as
yeasts, bacteria and fungi as a food production or preserving method.
In the case of alcoholic beverages, yeast is used to ferment sugars into
alcohol, whereas in yoghurt bacterial cultures are used to ferment
lactose into lactic acid. Fungi can also be used to ferment foods, such
as the Japanese filamentous fungi Aspergillus oryzae called koji used to
make miso. Sourdough bread is another example of a fermented food using
wild yeasts in a sourdough culture. The ripening of cheeses involves
the introduction of microbes that develop flavour from breakdown
products of proteins and fats, and moulds are sometimes introduced such
as in blue-vein cheese. Fermented foods tend to be sour tasting but can
be very complex in flavour which adds to their culinary appeal. Here are
some common fermented foods and beverages:
- Sauerkraut – fermented cabbage
- Kim chee – Korean sauerkraut with added chilli
- Tempeh – fermented soybean cake, similar to tofu but with a beanier, lumpier texture
- Miso – fermented soybean paste used as a soup base and marinade
- Yoghurt – cultured milk using a variety of lactobacillus strains
- Kefir – milk drink cultured with bacteria and yeasts – the bacteria is different to yoghurt
- Kombucha – an effervescent fermented tea
Why do many fermented foods have a low GI? Prof Jennie Brand-Miller explains. “One reason many fermented foods are beneficial to health is the production of organic acids such as lactic acid, acetic acid (the same acid as in vinegar), etc. These are by-products of the fermentation process when the bacteria/yeast metabolise the carbohydrates (sugars and starches) in the food or drink. These organic acids not only add distinctive flavours to the food or drink, they also lower the pH, making it difficult for harmful microorganisms to grow. In our stomachs, they slow down a food’s rate of emptying into the intestine, which in turn slows the rate of digestion and absorption of the food’s carbohydrates into the blood stream, lowering the overall GI.
In traditional breads (e.g., sourdoughs), the slow fermentation not only produces the organic acids that create that unique flavour, but also the slow rise of the dough due to the production of gases (e.g., carbon dioxide). This helps the bread develop the bubbly and chewy texture characteristic of a quality bread. The gluten (protein in wheat) matrix slowly develops and traps the bubbles of gas, which is why traditional sourdough breads have a low GI (54), even when they are made of refined white flour.
Yoghurt and fermented milk drinks like kefir, lassi, leben, and Yakult all have a low GI. There are several reasons why.
- Unique proteins in milk increase insulin production which accelerates the removal of glucose from the bloodstream.
- Milk sugar (lactose) has a lower GI (46) than sucrose (65) because the enzyme lactase works more slowly.
- Finally, the lactic acid produced by the fermentation of the lactose by various strains of bacteria like of Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophiles slows stomach emptying and therefore the rate that food is digested and absorbed.
